'The taco was a way of life': Santo Remedio owner Edson Diaz-Fuentes on growing up in Mexico

“There was a period when it was mandatory to go and eat tacos at the market. Each stand in the market has its own speciality. You’d go to one place and you’d get the best beef barbecoa tacos, and right next to it was a different barbecoa, done in a different style, from a different region. As well as that, each place has its own unique salsa. Noone says what’s in it - they will say tomato or tomatillo base but the rest is a secret. And when I grew up, around the time of high school, it was like ‘oh you have to go here, because the beef taco is the best cure for a hangover, or the best cure for… anything really!’ And for me it was just about queueing, seeing the steam, seeing the people, and ordering just one taco for myself as my treat.”

A Mexican native and former head of innovation at Wahaca — Diaz-Fuentes says: “Growing up I ate a lot of cactus. "

It’s eaten with scrambled eggs for breakfast, or in tacos, and coleslaw — which is how it appears on the Santo Remedio menu. For the tacos, the succulent is grilled, giving it a fleshy texture and tart, raspberryish flavour that works when balanced by sweetcorn, potatoes, salsa and Mexican chihuaha cheese. “Some of our customers have tried cactus for the first time here,” says Diaz-Fuentes, “and while it can be an acquired taste, the majority of people really like it. Especially once we tell them what a superfood it is.”